HAKUBA/AZUMINO

2h 40 min from Shinjuku (Tokyo) to Matsumoto Station by JR Chuo Line (limited express), and 1h from Matsumoto to Hakuba Station by JR Oito Line (limited express). 30 min from Matsumoto to Hotaka Station (Azumino) by JR Oito Line

Hakuba is a highland resort, stretching out from the foot of the Hakuba-Sanzan Mountains (Hakuba's three mountains) in northwestern Nagano, where you can enjoy skiing, trekking and all kinds of other sports and activities throughout the year. The magnificent view of the Northern Japan Alps and other beautiful mountains is the most recommended feature of this area. The 6-kilometer-long Happo-One Shizen-Kenkyu-ro (nature study path) is a popular easy trekking course. A ropeway and lift run throughout the year, offering an attractive aerial walk looking down upon a sea of trees.

Azumino is situated in the mid and upstream areas of the Azusa-gawa River to the south of Hakuba. It is a pastoral area that stretches to the north of the Matsumoto Basin. The greenery of the pastures and the remaining snow in the Northern Japan Alps together form a pleasant, peaceful sight. Azumino is also characterized by its many rivers that flow with sparkling clear water from the melting snow. The Daio Wasabi (Japanese horseradish) Farm, the largest farm in Azumino, takes full advantage of this natural gift and produces high quality Japanese horseradishes, which grow only in clean, pure water. Another symbol of Azumino is the Rokuzan Museum, an ivied, church-like building.

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RELEGION IN JAPAN

Until the Japanese suffered crushing defeat at the hands of the US in World War II, Japanese religion focused around the figure of the Emperor, a living God, whose subjects saw themselves as part of a huge family of which all Japanese people were members. Alongside this State Shinto, were a varied assortment of different Shinto and Buddhist sects, all combining to form a spiritual framework for the Japanese. Shinto was the religion of life, of living spirits (kami), who affected everyday living; Buddhism, on the other hand, was a religion of death, focusing on one's ancestors and the life to come. These beliefs were supported through a calendar of ritual and an intricate web of social custom.

The defeat in war, however, shattered many people's beliefs, as the frail voice of the Emperor was broadcast to the nation renouncing his deity. The period since has seen a secularisation of Japanese society almost as dramatic as the economic miracle which saw Japan's post-war economy go into overdrive.

However, much of the ritual has survived the collapse of religious belief. Japanese religion has become, for the vast majority of Japanese, a thing of action, behaviour which defines more their Japanese identity than any spirituality and something which at periodic times of festival, helps strengthen family and community ties.

There are, of course, exceptions to this. The spiritual vacuum left by the Emperor's renunciation was rapidly filled by a plethora of new religions (shin shukyo) which, with their rights enshrined in article 20 of the new constitution, sprang up across Japan.

Mainly concentrated in urban areas, these religions offered this-wordly benefits such as good health, wealth, and good fortune. Many had charismatic Christ-like leaders who inspired a fanatical devotion in their followers. It is here that the roots of such famous 'cults' as the 'Aum cult of the divine truth', who perpetrated the Tokyo subway gas attack of 1996, can be found.

However, the vast majority of new religions are focused on peace and the attainment of happiness, although many Japanese who have no involvement appear suspicious of such organisations. Tax dodging or money laundering are, according to some, par for the course.

Some of the new religions such as PL Kyoden (Public Liberty Kyoden) and Soka Gakkai have, however, become very much a part of the establishment in Japan, and it seems their role in politics and business is not to be underestimated.

For those who have an interest in Buddhism or Shinto, Japan is full of fascinating places to visit. Nara, in the Kansai region near Osaka, is thought to be the original home of Buddhism in Japan and features an extensive museum of Buddhist art and artifacts, as well as the huge statue of Buddha that is Nara's central visitor attraction.

Kyoto is full of beautiful shrines and temples and can provide a unique look back through history to a time when religious belief was a more significant part of everyday life, as well as being simply stunning to behold. In fact, everywhere you go in Japan, you will see the face of the country's religious heritage.

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SPORTS IN JAPAN

Sports are a big deal in Japan. Indeed, it is said that the very origin of the Japanese race depended on the outcome of a Sumo match. Most large companies have various teams and exercises are done every morning in the office. At school, students attend club activities at the beginning and end of each day. Flamboyant players and outrageous managers fill the gossip columns and sports' pages, and in case you forget your own need to exercise, there's a National Sports day in October.

The most popular sport in Japan is not Japanese at all however, it's professional baseball and was brought to Japan in 1873 by a US teacher. The players and etiquette however, despite one or two big name, big-earning foreign imports, are very Japanese. Teams bow to each other before and after the matches and the emphasis is placed very much on team performance over individual talent.

There are two professional baseball leagues in Japan - the Pacific League and the Central League, the 6 teams in each league compete for the pennant over a 10 month season which is followed by a playoff, the Japan Series, to decide the overall champions. Matches are played in the day and the evening and tickets are pretty easy to get hold of.

Football, known as soccer in Japan, has always struggled to find a place in the nation's heart. The 2002 World Cup was of course held in Japan and Korea - and it was a fantastic event with the host countries both doing really rather well. Reality struck home in 2006 however when the national team put in a pretty dismal performance in Germany - losing a 2 goal lead against Australia and going out in the first round. The J League meanwhile continues to suffer from low turnouts and is most definitely in the shadow of pro baseball.

The one bright spot for Japanese soccer is most definitely the performance of its players abroad - Nakamura scoring wonder goals for Celtic, Takahara lighting up the Bundesliga and Yanagisawa playing for Messina in Italy. According to Celtic manager Gordon Strachan, Nakamura "Could open a tin of tuna with his left foot" - the Japanese sports papers are more likely to have these stories than much of a mention of the J League.

What of more Japanese sports?

Sumo is the most popular and the wrestlers still command high celebrity status. In Sumo the basic idea is for the higashi rikishi (east wrestler) to force his nishi (west) foe out of the ring or onto the floor of the dohyo (ring). It's generally all over in a few seconds but watch carefully and there is immense skill and artistry in the wrestlers' moves. There are six tournaments (basho) a year and it is well worth a visit.

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NATIONAL DRINK OF JAPAN

Japan is a country of drinkers - and a few rituals should be considered before taking a tipple. Never pour a drink for yourself; your friend or host should do this for you and you in turn should keep your companions' glasses filled to the brim! A word you'll hear quite often is kampai - this means 'cheers' in Japanese.

Whilst Sake (rice wine) is the national drink of Japan, lager-beer (pronounced beer-ru in Japanese) is the most popular. Widely available brands include Kirin, Sapporo, Suntory, and Asahi. They are all worth a taste and average about 5% abv.

Watch out for cheaper brands though - these are not actually beer at all but happoshu, a malt flavoured beverage. This looks and tastes like cheap beer but the low malt content allows the brewers to avoid beer taxes! As for the Sake, our advice is to have the cheap stuff (a little rough on the palate) hot, but drink the quality brands (strong and fresh tasting) well chilled.

A wide variety of alco-pops called Chu-hai are available. Get them from a Konbini (convenience store) such as Lawsons, Circle K or Family Mart, or in a restaurant or bar. Chu-hai is made from Shochu, a distilled spirit, which can be bought neat although this is not advised. Whisky is very popular amongst Japanese men - Scotch is considered the best and is highly sought after.

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JAPANESE FOODS

Many Japanese restaurants specialise in one particular type of food. The best place to try Sushi (slices of raw seafood placed on lightly vinegared rice balls) and sashimi (slices of raw seafood dipped in soy sauce), is a kaiten-zushi bar.

You sit round a conveyor belt and pick plates of it - you generally pay per plate eaten. But Japanese food does not stop with raw fish; other specialities include teriyaki, marinated beef/chicken/fish seared on a hot plate), sukiyaki (thin slices of beef, bean curd and vegetables cooked in soy sauce and then dipped in egg), and tempura (deep fried sea-food and vegetables).

If everything so far sounds a bit meat and fish orientated don't be alarmed - there are vegetarian options in Japan. Try the wonderful zaru soba (buck-wheat noodles served cold), a bowl of Udon (thicker noodles) in a mountain vegetable soup, tofu steak or a vegetable okonomiyaki (savoury pancake). If you are feeling adventurous you could try natto, this is a sticky and slightly smelly concoction made of fermented soya beans. The Japanese liken it to marmite - you'll either love it or hate it.

If you want a more general selection, then the best place to go is an Izakaya (Japanese pub) where you will find an extensive and pretty cheap choice of food and drink. Izakaya often offer tabehodai or nomihodai - for a set price you get an hour or two to eat or drink as much as you like. Choosing exactly what to eat is made easier by well illustrated menus or plastic food displays at the doorway that Madame Tussaud would be proud of - just point and see what you get.

Western and Oriental foods are widely available in Japan. From a country that survived on a diet of mainly fish and vegetables just over a century ago, Japan has reached the stage where there is a steak house or McDonalds on nearly every corner.

Italian and Indian restaurants abound too, as well as some very good Chinese and Korean places. For a late night snack, a Ramen bar is a good bet, these can be found serving up steaming bowls of Chinese noodles, Japanese style, in various broth, until the small hours of the morning.

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THE TOGAKUSHI KOGEN HIGHLANDS

1h 55 min from Tokyo to Nagano Station by JR Jo'etsu-Nagano Shinkansen Line, and 1h from Nagano Station to Togakushi-Chusha by bus. 25 min from Nagano to Kurohime Station by JR Shin'etsu Line. The Togakushi-kogen Highlands area is situated in the north of Nagano within Joshinetsu National Park. This volcanic area has an altitude of 1,200 meters and is located at the foot of two volcanoes, Togakushi and Iizuna. In the midst of a wood, with cedar trees that are over 100 years old, there stands Togakushi-jinja Shrine. At the shrine you can see the Kagura, a performance of traditional sacred music and dancing with themes selected from ancient myths, during the grand festival held in fall. Togakushi is also noted for the production of soba noodles.

The Kurohime-kogen Highlands spread to the southeast of Mt. Kurohime-yama, situated near the border of Niigata this mountain is also known as Shinano-Fuji. It is a popular summer resort with larch and birch woods, and skiing in winter. Around the area called a "forest of fairy tales," is the Kurohime Fairy Tale Museum that collects fairy tales from all over the world, as well as the O-ike Pond, Nanatsu-ike Pond, volcanic crater lakes, cosmos fields, and cattle grazing fields.

Lake Nojiri-ko at the eastern foot of Mt. Kurohime-yama gained sudden attention when fossils of a giant mammal called Elephas Naumanni (Naumann's elephant ) were discovered in the lakebed. You can see the fossils and other excavated articles in the Nojiri-ko Museum.

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TATEYAMA KUROBE ALPINE

From Tokyo: 3h 20 min via Echigo-Yuzawa Station (JR Jo'etsu Shinkansen Line) to Toyama Station. 1h from Dentetsu Toyama to Tateyama Station by Toyama Chitetsu Tateyama Line. From Osaka: 3h 10 min to Toyama Station by JR Hokuriku Line. The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route is an international mountain sightseeing route of some 90 kilometers long. The route goes across the 3,000-meter-high North Alpine mountains, the so-called "roof of Japan," and connects Toyama and Shinano Omachi. You can enjoy the panorama, from the fresh green of spring, to the red leaves of fall, to the new snow of winter, by taking a train, highland bus, trolley bus, cable car, and ropeway. Since the lines opened in June 1971, the Tateyama mountain area has been transformed from an isolated spot into one of the nation's best sightseeing areas, where a million guests visit every year.

Murodo-daira of Tateyama has one of the heaviest snows in the world, and the snow reaches about seven meters on average. In particular, the snow mantle at Otani, a five-minute walk from Murodo Station, sometimes gets more than 20 meters because of snowdrifts. The famous "Snow Walls" are formed by expelling this heavy snow, and the 500-meter-long area with such snow walls is open to sightseers from mid-April to late May.


The Kurobe Dam, built at the upper stream of the Kurobe-gawa River, an arched concrete dam 186 meters high, is the highest in Japan and is higher than a 50-floor skyscraper. From the dam's observatory, you see a panorama view of the Tateyama mountain range and the North Alpine. Visitors can see the dynamic water discharge from 26 June to 15 October.

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JAPANESE

Japan has a population of about 126 million (the eighth largest in the world), 75% of whom live in urban areas where population density is very high. In the industrial areas of Kansai and Kanto there is no discernible gap between cities. Yokohama and Tokyo, although separate in name, really make up a single urban conurbation - the largest in the world.

Much of Japan however is very sparsely populated; there are large national parks and vast mountainous regions where the people's way of life is unrecognisable from urban Japan. Indeed, in order to protect Japan's rice crops from cheaper foreign imports, rural lives are government protected, although for how long no one can be sure.

Be it in the sparsely populated countryside or in the large cities, Japan is still a country of remarkable ethnic and cultural homogeneity. Inhabitants of non-Japanese origin make up only just over 1% of the overall population. The vast majority of these are Koreans.

Of course, the ancestry of the Japanese is a matter of much debate. The indigenous population of Hokkaido originally included a variety of ethnic groups, now collectively known as the Ainu. Many place names in Japan can be traced back to the Ainu language.

One striking thing about Japan is that amongst the young there is a whiff of rebellion in the air. Their parents were brought up with the promise of a job for life and worked day and night as the post-war bubble grew seemingly inexorably bigger. However, for the younger generation the bubble burst in the 80s crash and the old certainties no longer hold true. Add to this concoction, kids who have until now been denied nothing, who see no need to work the inflexible and long hours their parents did and the spectre of rising unemployment and it is clear why dissatisfaction is growing.

Symbolic of this is perhaps the furita, the twenty-something taking on a number of part time jobs and then going to Bali to escape for a month or two of surfing.

Change is a slow process in Japan, a cultural reality not helped by the fact that politics are stagnant and the ruling LDP coalition has been in power for nearly all the post-war years. Economic problems and general dissatisfaction with the Japanese work miracle has meant an increase in crime. Having said all this, Japan is still a very wealthy and relatively extremely safe country.

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JAPANESE CULTURE

Japan has a fascinating and multifaceted culture; on the one hand it is steeped in the deepest of traditions dating back thousands of years; on the other it is a society in a continual state of rapid flux, with continually shifting fads and fashions and technological development that constantly pushes back the boudaries of the possible. It could therefore be said that Japan is a country of stark contradictions and is in part this that makes it such a fascinating country to visit and unique tourist destination. If you are looking for something different you are sure to find it here!

In this section of our web-site we have have put together six articles which are inteneded to give the reader a good overview of Japanese culture - People, Religion, Social Conventions, Sport, Food and Drink. We hope that you enjoy reading them and that the information provided proves valuable when taking your trip to Japan. For anyone booking a package with us, we will be supplying more practical advice in our complimentary info-pack. However, for now read on and begin to emerse yourself in some of the culture of Japan.

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MATSUMOTO

From Tokyo: 2h 40 min from Shinjuku (Tokyo) to Matsumoto Station by JR Chuo Line (limited express).
From Osaka: 50 min from Shin-Osaka to Nagoya Station by JR Tokaido Shinkansen Line, and 2h from Nagoya to Matsumoto Station by JR Chuo Line (limited express).


Matsumoto, situated almost right in the center of Nagano and known as the gate to the Northern Alps' climbing routes, prospered as a castle town at the foot of Matsumoto Castle. The castle's tower, a 5-story, 6-layer tower built in the Bunroku Period (1593-1594) is Japan's oldest existing castle tower and is designated as a national treasure. In summer, the Taiko (Japanese drum) Festival and the Takigi-Noh (Noh play under torchlight) are held at the castle and attract many visitors.

Along the Nakamachi-dori Street to the south of the castle are many old merchant houses built in the 'kura-zukuri' style and warehouses built with 'namako' walls covered with square tiles jointed with raised plaster. The Matsumoto City Hakari-kan is a former warehouse of the Tanaka family, a weights and measures shop that was established in 1902 that now serves as a museum exhibiting a collection of measuring tools. The Old Kaichi School building is a western-style building built in 1876 and is open to the public as an education museum. To visit these places, you may want to take a Matsumoto round-trip bus which charges you a fixed fare to go to any of the stops along the route.

The large, green Shiroyama-koen Park, at an altitude of 800 meters, is where Dejiro, the guarding branch castle for Matsumoto Castle, used to be located. The view of the Northern Alps from the park is beautiful, and it is a famous cherry blossom viewing spot in spring. The neighboring Matsumoto City Alps Park has popular field athletic facilities, as well as the 630-meter-long Dream Coaster.

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NORIUKRA

2h 40 min from Shinjuku (Tokyo) to Matsumoto Station by JR Chuo Line (limited express), and 30 min from Matsumoto to Shin-Shimashima Station by Matsumoto Dentetsu Kamikochi Line. 40 min from Shin-Shimashima Station to O-taki-mae, or 55 min from Shin-Shimashima Station to Shirahone-onsen by Matsumoto Dentetsu Bus.

Norikura is a highland around Nagano's western border with Gifu. It ranges in height from 1,400 to 1,500 meters, and is surrounded by white birch, plum and larch trees. Mt. Norikura-dake near the highland is the location of the Ushidome-ike Pond, which was formed by a volcanic eruption. It is surrounded by evergreen trees, and its surface reflects their green leaves and the 23 peaks of Mt. Norikura-dake.

Dairy cows are put out to graze from early summer till autumn in the Ichinose-enchi Pasture, located almost in the middle of the Norikura-kogen Highlands. There are many walking courses to be enjoyed around the pond. The time required to complete a walk ranges from 40 minutes to 1 hour 20 minutes. On the walking course near the Zengoro-no-taki Falls, you can go near enough to the waterfall to be showered by its spray.

The Shirahone-onsen Hot Spring in the north of Norikura is said to have already been opened in the Kamakura Period (12-14th century). The hot water is milky and contains pure hydrogen sulfide. It is drinkable and retains heat, making it good for ailments of the stomach and intestines.

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KAMIKOCHI

2h 40 min from Shinjuku (Tokyo) to Matsumoto Station by JR Chuo Line (limited express), and 30 min from Matsumoto to Shin-Shimashima by Matsumoto Dentetsu Line. 1h from Shin-Shimashima Station to Kamikochi by bus.

Kamikochi is a small basin some 1,500 meters above sea level on the upper stream area of the Azusa-gawa River, which runs through the western part of Nagano. The Hodaka Mountain Range, Mt. Yake-dake and the Jonen Mountains surround Kamikochi, which is a part of Chubu-Sangaku National Park. It was Walter Weston, a British missionary and mountain climber, who introduced Kamikochi to the world in the 19th century. Since then many climbers have come to know about this place, considered to be one of the most scenic spots in Japan.

The whole area is covered with virgin forests of birch and Japanese larch trees, and Japanese hemlocks. The Taisho-ike, Tashiro-ike and Myojin-ike ponds are scattered throughout the forest and produce a beautiful landscape by reflecting the high-rising mountain peaks. Among them, the Taisho-ike Pond presents a very special scene: In the early 20th century, Mt. Yake-dake erupted and dammed the Azusa-gawa River to form the pond, where trees now stand decayed in the blue water. The young leaves of birch trees are so beautiful in June that they are called a "light green mist," and attract many tourists. The foliage is at its peak in October and many visitors travel there to admire its beauty.

The symbol of Kamikochi is the Kappa-bashi Bridge, a 36.6-meter-long and 3.1-meter-wide wooden suspension bridge over the Azusa-gawa River. With the Hodaka Mountain Range rising in front and the volcanic Mt. Yake-dake in the south billowing white smoke, Kappa-bashi is known as one of the most scenic spots in Kamikochi.

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NAGANO, JAPAN

From Tokyo: 1h 45 min to Nagano Station by JR Nagano Shinkansen Line.

From Osaka: 1h from Shin-Osaka to Nagoya Station by Shinkansen, and 2h 47 min from Nagoya to Nagano Station by JR Chuo Line.


Nagano is an inland prefecture situated in the central part of Honshu that spreads across the Central Highland, also known as the Roof of Japan. Because it is situated between the Kanto and Kansai regions, it developed while being influenced by the cultures of both eastern and western Japan.

In the central part of the prefecture are mountains connected to three volcanic mountains, Mt. Nasu-yama, Mt. Fuji and Mt. Norikura-dake, and the 3,000-meter-class Japan Alps Mountains to the west. Nagano has both a high and steep mountain region, as well as a more moderate stretch of highlands. In summer it becomes a flower paradise with blooming alpine plants of various kinds. The natural beauty there is both grand and fragile. In the winter, ski resorts open in various locations throughout the prefecture, attracting many skiers.

The line of tourists visiting Nagano does not seem to end throughout the year. They visit scenic spots like Jo'estu Kogen National Park, which has Mt. Asama-yama and Mt. Yokote-yama, Minami Alps National Park, and Chubu Sangaku National Park. They also visit Karuizawa, which is one of the most famous summer resorts in Japan, and Zenko-ji Temple in Nagano City, the city which hosted the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics, as well as the cities of Ueda and Matsumoto, which prospered as castle towns. Famous hot springs include the Nozawa-onsen and Shibu-onsen, known for the monkeys that are often seen bathing in the rock baths at Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park.

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